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By Heidi Quill , Jessie Atkinson and Faye Fearon
Presenting GQ’s ultimate guide to buying a men’s suit. Whether you’re in the market for a linen, cotton or wool suit, we’ve got you covered...
Every man should have a suit in his wardrobe. There, we’ve said it. There really is no exception. Gay Talese, former journalist at the New Yorker, once said, “Putting on a beautifully designed suit elevates my spirit, extols my sense of self and helps define me as a man to whom details matter”, and it will do the exact same for you. Even if you don’t work in a job that demands one. Whether you need a suit for a wedding, job interview or funeral, it’s likely you’ll need a smart, tailored look at least once a year.
And, sure, while a decent suit will make you feel a million dollars (figuratively speaking), with so many suits out there, chances are you could fall flat and end up looking pretty awful. Every leading style figure has at one time or another donned a suit, whether it’s Harry Styles or Donald Glover (and, to be honest, they know how to get it right).
With that in mind, we thought it was about time we compiled the ultimate GQ guide to suits. So whether you’re in the market for a wool suit fit for the winter months or a wedding suit that won’t break the bank, we can (and will) help you out. Don't hesitate, thinking you may not be able to afford any of the suits below, either. We’ve got you covered with the best suits for men, no matter your budget.
For your typical wedding, formality should be at the forefront of your mind. “A versatile, ever-smart-suit-that-flatters-your-proportions three-piece suit” is the best option and the one that Ben Clarke, head cutter at Richard James, suggests men go for. If there is a colour scheme, it’s best to stick to it. If in doubt, a plain mid-grey will go with anything, while navy is versatile and flatters all complexions. If you do decide to opt for a three-piece suit, then always remember that when wearing a waistcoat, there is no time or place for a belt.
“Sunny-weather weddings lend themselves to more casual styles in lighter tones with softer constructions (less padding and canvasses). Soft linens, cottons and summer wool frescos all come into play during the summer,” explains Clarke.
And while a wedding itself may break the bank, your suit doesn’t need to. Whether you head to high-street favourite Marks & Spencer or Alexander McQueen, there is something to suit every budget, without compromising on the fit.
With the turn of summer comes the ability to change up your suiting. Summer suits, when put in contrast to their winter-friendly compatriots, should be lighter, cut from more porous fabrics (such as linen, silk or fine merino wool), and styled in pale, sun-reflecting shades to reflect the warmer climes. You could even go down the route that John Legend favours and go for suits in vibrant shades such as yellow and purple.
You also have the opportunity to play around a little more when wearing a summer suit – perhaps by switching out a shirt for a vest (as Harry Styles and Kanye West like to do) or by going shirtless completely, as seen on the catwalks of Louis Vuitton and Dior.
Sure, you might not be a fan of the cooler weather that the winter months bring, but there is one good thing about it: you get to wear a wool suit. Softer and therefore more wearable than tweed, it is a happy medium between comfort, style and warmth, making it our go-to between the months of October and March (give or take a few, remembering we still live in temperamental Britain). Essentially, wool is a better idea than lighter alternatives in the cooler months because you won't have to cover up all that excellent tailoring under a coat.
Wool is also a good idea because, rather than its polyester counterpart, it is less damaging to the environment. When you want it to, wool will biodegrade in a matter of months, without causing microfibre or plastic pollution. It’s a win-win (unless, of course, you try to wear it in a heatwave).
Hawes & Curtis wool suit
A linen suit is a warm-weather must-have. Lightweight and loose, the mighty linen suit tends to be constructed in flax fibre with an extremely low thread count (fine cotton tends to be around 200, with a fine linen around 80-150), which means it is a lot lighter than other suits (the wool suit, in particular). If you have any business obligations that take you to warmer climes, then the linen suit should be a bit of a staple.
Whether you wear a linen suit for a formal day look with a pair of sandals and an open, linen shirt (Chris Hemsworth does this well), or wear it with a crisp white shirt and tie, you can guarantee that a sweaty back will be furthest from your mind.
Historically, the lounge suit was the less formal version of morning dress or morning suit. Today, however, that has changed. Ben Clarke suggests that “these days, I would say that a lounge suit is simply a suit of two or three pieces that has each been cut from the same cloth. After the Second World War the waistcoat rather disappeared because of cloth rationing and so the two-piece lounge suit was born.”
The lounge suit, as we know it today, is something of an umbrella term, covering both two- and three-piece suits. When you read a dress code on an invitation that reads “lounge suit” rather than “cocktail attire” you can expect that your office suit is more than up to scratch, rather than tailored eveningwear.
Essentially, most suits you see on the high street or in the office are lounge suits. The colour, style and shape preferences are up to you.
While you can find some great tailoring on the high street right now, chances are an off-the-peg fit will always be a little off (unless you’re built to model-sized specifications, of course). If you're looking for something truly perfect, made-to-measure is your best bet.
Made-to-measure suits are typically taken from a ready-made fit pattern and then altered by a tailor to fit you, meaning the finished garment will be fully customised to your body and style. If you’re looking for a suit that fits like a glove, then you’re probably going to want to go down the made-to-measure route.
Nowadays, most brands offer a made-to-measure service, from Paul Smith to Gieves & Hawkes.
If you have a black-tie event, then you’re going to need a dinner suit. The classic tuxedo (AKA the penguin suit) is sharp, fitted, and comes in a range of styles with small tweaks. A traditional dinner suit comes with a single-breasted jacket with jetted pockets. Typically, it features peak lapels or shawl collar, which are equally authentic and correct and usually come in silk, satin or grosgrain. Notched lapels aren’t seen as typically acceptable for a black-tie event.
Today, the dinner suit has come a long way from its 19th-century origins and the red carpet at awards ceremonies have become awash with different variations. The blue tux is a popular option (Tyler, the Creator and Donald Glover favour a more colourful-hued suit). Then there's the bolder, mismatched tux; a look which the likes of Timothée Chalamet is a fan of, donning black slim-fitting trousers with a patterned dinner jacket.
There is also the white jacket dinner suit. The rules of white tie are akin to those of black – just make sure everything fits and avoid notched lapels (a bow tie is customary).
With all that in mind, below we have picked the best suits you can get your hands on right now, to fit any occasion...
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Percival's foray into suiting is a clever one. The brand, beloved by celebs from Tom Holland to Ryan Reynolds, offers a louche take on tailored ensembles – a current shoutout going to this green houndstooth set. Lightweight upon wear thanks to its deconstructed status, it's detailed with a satin sleeve lining, internal pockets and shirt grip across the trouser waistband. FYI, both ingredients currently have 20 per cent off, so be sure to add them to your basket before it's too late. Jacket, £259 £207. Trousers, £139 £111. At percivalclo.com
Experts at approaching formality with an informal spirit, Studio Nicolson's designs are typically underpinned by a relaxed feel and oversized dimensions… and this pick is certainly no exception. Cut from a pliable navy twill, this ‘Mizumi’ suit is characteristically oversized and boxy, all the while maintaining all the smart and luxe vibes you'd want from your suiting. Jacket, £605 £363. Trousers, £325 £211. At matchesfashion.com
Despite its range of tailoring being offered at a pretty reasonable price, Reiss doesn't compromise on quality in its construction. In the case of this tobacco-shaded suit, both the jacket and the trousers have been structured through a luxe-wool blend, moulding to a slim fit around the body yet still guaranteeing comfort thanks to the dropped shoulder and reverse vents. For under £500, what's not to love? Jacket, £328. Trousers, £168. reiss.com
Searching for a black suit to last for the long run? Jil Sander has got you covered. Evidencing the brand’s mastery of minimalism, this single-breasted set is impeccably tailored from a wool-gabardine blend – cleanly shaped into a sharp and straight fall. Whether you're heading to a day at the office or a formal, post-work occasion, this suit will see you through anything, making it one of the smartest additions to your wardrobe. Buy less, buy better. £2,480 £1,116. At matchesfashion.com
From Tommy guns to Gomez, you never really know what image pinstripes are going to conjure. Thankfully, this single-breasted number from Cos reimagines the style for a sleek, chic, image that leaves those of 1920s-era cartoon gangsters behind. Jacket, £225. Trousers, £135. cos.com
Salmon pink doesn’t just go well on toff’s cords and ladies’ cocktail dresses. As Paul Smith demonstrates with its latest dabbling in colourful two-piece design, this satin lapel evening set puts the striking shade to excellent use. Jacket, £1,300 £910. Trousers, £360 £252.
The ultimate suit for the baggy-loving gent, Arket's semi-constructed number is undeniably modern, but deeply infused with 90s-era boxiness. In keeping with this mood, we'd style it with a crisp white dress shirt, chunky brogues, no tie. Jacket, £249. Trousers, £119. arket.com
Synonymous with serious luxury, Italian sartorial master Brunello Cucinelli is the ultimate source for a lifetime suit investment. Our top pick from his Autumn/Winter 2023 collection? This traditional brown check set. Assembled in Italy from a quality wool-blend, it’s fitted with generous notch lapels, flap pockets and tortoiseshell buttons across the blazer, and a flattering pleated finish across the front of the trousers. Perfectly printed to the codes of autumn, it’s a seasonal must have if you’re looking to splurge. Jacket, £4,500. Trousers, £1,650. At matchesfashion.com
Hero of the high street, you might be surprised to hear that H&M can also be relied on for an excellent piece of budget-friendly suiting; but you really shouldn't be. This unstructured two-piece is designed for a shruggish, loose fit, bringing a touch of laissez-faire to your formal events. Jacket, £64.99. Trousers, £34.99. hm.com
As if a trad tuxedo suit couldn't get any suaver, Tom Ford adds velvet. In a rich, inky navy hue and fashion's most supple construction, this ‘Atticus’ suit is nothing but opulent, with satin-trimmed peak lapels and a sharp, taut silhouette. Just add some attitude. Jacket, £3,850. Trousers, £1,190. At matchesfashion.com
Theory’s 2 for £300 function is just another positive in a long line of them, making this set of ponte pieces some of our most reached-for affordable suiting. Coming in a muted kaleidoscope of neutrals — taupe, khaki, navy — the Theory straight leg chino-style/single-breasted jacket combo is a wardrobe shoo-in (potentially several times over). Jacket, £355 £241. Trousers, £185.
Designed in collaboration with style-conscious editor Ben Cobb, Tiger of Sweden’s latest collection will bring the perfect amount of opulence to the sartorial section of your wardrobe. Crafted from a rich black velvet, this single-breasted suit is detailed with exaggerated peak lapels, the rims of which are piped with satin for an extra touch of glamour. With the festive party season just around the corner, you won’t find a more eye-catching ensemble to see you through it. Jacket, £1,000. Trousers, £550. At matchesfashion.com
Another season, another Mango suiting collection that bears fruit. In this wool-blend edition, a pair of grey-brown pinstripe trews with a matching darted single-breasted blazer. There’s everything you might expect from such a pairing — double vents, lining, inner pockets — and a couple of things you might not, too: thermoregulating in your affordable suit, anyone? Jacket, £149.99 Trousers, £79.99.
Paris-based brand Husbands has made a name for itself in menswear thanks to its immaculate approach to tailoring. A fine case in point? This single-breasted tweed suit. Designed using a black and white blend of the classic fabric, it's detailed with sharp Roman shoulders, grand notch lapels, horn buttons and internal pockets. Fully canvassed for extra warmth, it's a smart companion to see you through imminent colder days. Check out the brand's heeled leather boots for a flattering base. £1,347. husbands-paris.com
Majorly sharp and lightly Scandi in aesthetic, Cos' lounge suit is a sleek choice that skims just south of the £300 price point. Promoting both affordability and style, pair this pick with anything from a dress shirt and tie to a simple navy blue knit. The choice is yours. Jacket, £180. Trousers, £115. cos.com
Bottega Veneta has made one of the coolest and most timeless suits (and in a silk blend, no less). If you’re looking to spend on a black suit you’ll wear again and again, both as a pair and as separates, this could be The One. The single-breasted jacket is neat as a pin with a centralised button fastening and slimming darting. And the trousers? They’re a riot in a cropped mini-flare. Jacket, £2,060. Trousers, £990.
Every tailoring-loving man ought to be well aware of Boss' sharp offerings, but if you're not, allow us to do some introductions. Doing what it does best by contemporising classic tailoring codes, Boss' double-breasted seersucker suit cuts a retro-inspired shape, modernised by its taut silhouette and khaki hue. £645 £290. At matchesfashion.com
If you're in the market for some oversized neutral-hued essentials, you ought to be looking at Raey. Tailored from a ramie and cotton blend, this slouchy two-piece enhances its laissez-faire feel via its upscaled proportions and relaxed, drop shoulders. Jacket, £425. Trousers, £325. At matchesfashion.com
Finding yourself fatigued by the ever-growing onslaught of beige and navy tailoring? Forming a key part of Percival's all-new SS23 collection, this forest green linen suit brings its mossy hue to your seasonal calendar as a centre-piece of the celeb-adored label's Spring/Summer output. Stand out, but stylishly. Jacket, £219 £175. Trousers, £129 £103. percivalclo.com
Bored of charcoals and navies? So is Issey Miyake. Straying from convention, this suit opts for a wearable, but less conventional, olive green hue. Further set apart by the label's signature pleated plissé construction, this distinctly laidback suit is defined by its eccentric fluidity. Jacket, £765. Trousers, £390. At matchesfashion.com
Only the debonair should apply within Charles Tyrwhitt for this slice of luxe Italian velvet. This navy jacket — a more flattering and wearable shade than traditional evening black — may not come with “matching” trousers, but the textural riot of the cotton velvet is better suited to a more discreet trouser situation anyway. We recommend trying these moleskin slim-fits. Jacket, £249.95. Trousers, £99.95.
Semi Formal Mens Outfits As an insulator and a wind buffeter, corduroy is second to none. Also, while people lose sleep over whether it is or isn’t in fashion, it continues to look suave and therefore has longevity, plus its durability means it will physically last. This Drake’s suit harnesses all the swagger of old-school tailoring to produce a fantastic winter two-piece. Jacket, £795. Trousers, £375. At drakes.com